I'm looking for a 1080p 60hz IPS monitor around 23". With solar curve it takes some getting used to before you can reliably tell which transition is smooth enough and which isn’t but it’s the most reliable way to check whether the image will band or not before printing it.Here’s two examples, one image is banded (left) and the other is not (right):While it’s best to avoid the issue altogether and think about it at the moment of capture, we all understand that sometimes you make a mistake in the field or you already have some archived files with no additional exposures. Colors have a powerful effect on our emotions. This means below 66.7% banding can become very apparent. This will give you the maximum flexibility with Photoshop.“Well, all this advice is great, but what do I do with files that I already have” – you might ask – “how do I fix those?” We’ll get into this in a minute, but first let’s talk about how to know for sure if color banding is there or not.Sometimes even though color banding is present, it might not be very apparent on your computer screen because the skies are usually blue and bright so it’s hard to see, but once your image goes into print – those nasty lines come to life. And this means getting as much as you can “right” during your photography. Flattening / exporting must cause the adjustment layer to be applied with full quality.This won’t be the cause of all banding, but it is one to watch out for. In order to be able to post messages on the Overclock.net - An Overclocking Community forums, you must first register. Is this kind of color banding normal? Rep: 1446
But as soon as you use a true 32-bit Full Float EXR or HDR file you have full dynamic range in PS, but lose the ability to use most tools and adjustments that make Photoshop so great… Also neither LR nor Capture One Pro have an option to export as 32-bit, sadly. Hope you found this information useful and it helped you achieve the result you were after.This guest post was contributed by Denis Protopopov. Troubleshooting. And these emotions play a major role in how we behave as consumers. This issue is called “color banding” and it happens when values within a gradient get pushed so much that there is no color/value in the file to actually represent the mathematical change you’ve applied with a tool in Photoshop.Basically, when this happens it means you are hitting the boundaries of your file. :-)Thank you. Mind you an LCD display needs to … Your histogram should show you this, and which colors, before you save to TIFF.2. Things I've done with no success: - try both DVI and HDMI cables - try plugging into motherboard instead of GTX 970 - try both limited and full color range in Nvidia Control Panel - try both RGB and YCBCR444 output color format - change gamma It also disappears when the image is flattened (because the artefact is caused by the layer processing). Could it be an issue with the camera/lens or more likely the RAW conversion? The color red is the perfect example. Color Efex Pro might be able to work with 16-bit half float as well as Lightroom while PS cannot. Is this kind of color banding normal?
if it doesn't, keep it. This issue is especially common for very smooth gradients, such as skies, and can undoubtedly destroy even the most beautiful photo. What could be the cause of this? And once you’ve taken away values (by opening your file in Photoshop) you can’t add them back into the file and when you try to push too hard you get banding.This all is only a theory and I doubt a NIK or an Adobe developer will shed some light into this but if someone knows more about this I am happy to learn.And lastly, when at the last stage you can export from a RAW converter to Photoshop, use the uncompressed TIFF file with the widest color space – ProPhoto. I have neither.